Monthly Archives: October 2016

Suerte del Marqués Trenzado

Many would hesitate to mention the Canary Islands among the regions capable to grow serious vineyard based wines, and in a sustainable way too. But they are, and here is a terrific white from northern/central Tenerife.
Near the mighty Teide peak, in mineral and volcanic soil of the Orotava valley, there is adequate sun conditions for making quality wines. The family behind Suerte del Marqués established quite recently this project, but it’s based on more than 100 years old vines with traditional varieties.

You will not you see any new barrels in their cellar. And in more technical terms there is no industrial yeasts nor enzymes at work. if any sulphur is used it’s only a tiny amount before bottling.

The variety is listán negro, the same grape that is used for sherry, in combination with other local white grapes such as pedro ximénez and the local variety of albillo.

The term trenzado signifies the way the vines are trained, like a braid.

trenzado

Trenzado 2014 (Suertes del Marqués)

Yellow-orange-light brownish colour. Complex aroma with flowers, yellow tomatoes, herbs and spices. Creamy mouthfeel with a fresh, citrusy mineral fruit, and a nice and spicy finish.

Price: Medium

Food: Tapas made with fish, shellfish or meat, light meat and grilled fish

A real Verdicchio

100% Verdicchio from Castelli di Jesi in Marche on the Italian Adriatic coast.

After harvest and pressing the must was fermented spontaneously. The wine was kept 9 months on lees in big, old oak vats and steel.

last-ned

PassoLento Classico Riserva 2013 (La Marca di San Michele)

Orange, light brownish. Fresh, juicy, appley with citrus, slightly buttery with some nuts. Good acidity and length.

Price: Medium

Perricone, Sicilia

The Perricone grape variety originated from western Sicilia. In the past it was mostly noted for full bodied, bitter and alcoholic wines. But with today’s farming methods, often organic growing, low yields and early picking (or earlier, as it ripens very late) it has more appeal for modern palates, and still with high antioxidant qualities.

The small cooperative Valdibella in Camporeale (Palermo province) was among those who took part in the rescue operation, as the variety was in danger of extinction. Valdibella takes their pride in preserving the biodiversity, and they make natural wines in the sense that the interventions in vineyards and cellar, as well as chemical additives, are held on an absolute minimum, for some wines absolutely nothing.

Acamante is made only from perricone, hand-harvested, only with indigenous yeasts, and with no fining nor filtering. It comes with a low alcohol at 12%.

2016-10-09-15-37-11

Acamante Perricone 2013 (Valdibella)

Dark colour. A floral, perfumed scent, red berries, with some earth and spicyness. Balanced tannins, and refreshing acidity on the palate, a slight hint of bitterness. Delightful drinking.

Price: Medium

Food: Light meat, pasta, antipasti with salami and other…

Baga & friends from Quinta da Serradinha

I first met António Marques da Cruz and tasted his wines a few years ago, in a restaurant owned by the family of fellow winemaker Pedro Marques in Lisboa. Next occation was a wine fair down by the river Tejo. You can read about it here. Since then I have occationally come across the wines in bars, mostly in Portugal (such as the Café Tati), that specialize in quality wines from artisan growers.

2014-07-10-23-16-41 Meeting António and tasting his wines in Lisboa

It was quite surprising to find a baga from just outside Leiria. But looking at it, the humid climate near the coast and the limestone-clay soils (also with chalk content) are not very different from what you can find many places in Bairrada, where the grape is at it most emblematic. The Marques family was pioneers in organic viticulture and low-intervention winemaking in the area.

The next surprise was that the wine was that old. I came across it this year too, in London, and it had really stood the test of time. Baga is also used in younger blends, giving both fresh and meaty, blueberry and blackberry scented wines.

The Baga 1999 comes from a vineyard planted back in 1957. It has 75% baga, the rest being a field blend of castelão, trincadeira and alicante bouschet. Everything was hand-harvested, the maceration was carried out in 20 days. The wine was aged in big 3000L barrels, and the wine was bottled without filtration. Alcoholwise it clocks in at just 12%. I think at a time the wine was labelled Estremadura (the name of the wine region now known as Lisboa).

quinta-da-serradinha-tinto_1999

Quinta da Serradinha 1999 (António Marques da Cruz)

Deep cherry red. It still retains some freshness, with blueberry intact, but with aged aromas such as nuts, dried fruits and a touch of raisins. Concentrated, still pretty lively in the mouth, with some acidity. But everything is just so well integrated.

Price: Medium

Food: Many kinds of meat, hard cheeses, lovely on its own

Andalucía Feb.-March 2017

Andalucía Feb.-March 2017

Take a look at the brochure here (in Norwegian)

We organize a wine trip from/to Málaga 28th Feb. – 5th March 2017, in collaboration with Spanish company Indigo Travels.

This trip will be especially suited for a Scandinavian audience, as there will be Scandinavian speaking guides on the whole trip. After at least 8 producer visits and meals that focus on a variety of local quality wine, you will gain in-depth knowledge of Andalusian wine in general and the provinces of Málaga and Granada in particular.

Feel free to ask any further questions (on contact@truewine.no,
or info@indigotravelevents.com).